Stitch-forming mechanism.



E. B. ALLEN.Y

STITCH FORMING MEGHANISM. APPLIUATION FILED Nov. 2, 1910.

1,030,046. Patented J11I1e18, 1912.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

E'. B. ALLEN.

STITCH PORMING MBGHANISM.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 2, 1910.

Patented June 18, 1912.

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7 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

5 vw@ nto@ Witwe-awo MPM 7391*# E. B. ALLEN.

STITCH FORMING MBGHANISM.

APPLICATION PILED Nov, 2, 1910.

1,03050-46,s Patented. Ame 18, 1912.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 8.

94 G1R/)Human .fm f? #MM 9 E. B. ALLEN.

STITCH PORMING MBCHANISM.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 2, 1910.

Patented June 18, 93.2.

'I SHEETS-SHEET 4.

E. B. ALLEN. STITCH FORMING MBGHANISM.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 2, 1910.

Patented June 18, 1.1912.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

@mi In@ @do I Y @fw Zin E. B. ALLEN.

STITCH FORMING MEGHANISM.

APPLICATION FILED Nov. 2, 19m.

Patented June 18, 1912.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

wim/Lewes E. BpALLEN.

,STITCH PORMING MEGHANISM.

APPLIOATION FILED NOV. 2, 1910,

. Patented June 18, i912.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 7.

WW1/Leones:

able loop-detainer while th'e EDWARD B. ALLEN, OFBIRIIIDGrEIlNll'xlT,.C01\TI\'I'EG'.IIGUT, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGERMANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF'NEW JERSEY.

STITCH-romaine MncHAivIsM.

To all whom t may concern: v

Be it known that I, EDWARD B. ALLEN, a citizen of the United States,residing at- Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield and State ofConnecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inStitch- Forming Mechanism, of which the following isa'specication,'reference being ha'd therein to the accompanyingdrawings.

This `invention is Idesigned for embodiment more particularly in thatclass of overs'eaming stitch-forming mechanism comprising a laterallyjogging needle or rectilinearly reciprocating needles for passingupper-thread loops through vthe work in different substantially parallelpathsand two loopers, one of which carries a lower thread, arrangedbeneat-hthe work and adapted to coperate each with the needle in one ofIits lateral positions or with its respective needle (when two of thelatter are employed), in^ conjunction with loop-sprea'ders cooperatinglwith said loopers for distending' thread loops for passage of threadloops carri/cd by the needle or needles. The improvementis howeverapplicable to other classes of stitchforming mechanism.,

lThe invention vhas for its primary object to insure the certainty ofcooperation of thelower-thread looper withthe needle which presentsupper-thread loops for its passage, so as to prevent skipping ofstitches, and it has for a' further objectto insure the disposition ofthe purl, or interlock of the upper'v and lower thread, upon the-extremeedge" of the work lwhere the mechanism is employed for overedgestitching, as' in the production of buttonholes. u

According to the present improvement, a thread-carrying member 'passes alloop of lower thread lthrough an initial upperthread loop presentedbeneath the work by the needle,`-`which lower-thread loop 'isf ent--gaged and held by an independently Amou'-` looper recedes, after which;theinitial upperthread loop is drawn up around the lowerthread loopWhile the needle-'iss'till above the work preparatory to a' succeedingldescent, so that -said initial upper-thread loop is drawnfclse to thelo'weriface-Io'f the work before the formation of the succeedingupperthread loop whieh---ispassed through said lower-thread loopanddistended for seizure Specification of Letters Patent.

same.

Vture in'the' work upwardly again through the needle-puncturethread-carrying Patented June, 18., 19142.,

Application filed November 2, 1910. Serial No. 590,29.

vby'the second looper. By these means, the initial upper-thread loop isdrawn up above loop-presenting position previous to the throwing out ofthe succeeding upperthread loop, and isl entirely removed frominterferencetherewith so as to avoid deflecting it and endangering themissing of the same by the point of the secondary looper. This manner ofhandling the upper and lower thread loops is particularly important 1nconnection with stitching overlapping plies of material uni-ted such asthepbutton-hole or rubber fabrics, as the adherence of particles ofrubber or cement to the upper thread in its passage through Vthe workcauses to a greater or less extent the stiftening of'the same so thatthe'contact of successively formed thread loops beneath the workincreases the liability of deflection of the last formed upper-threadloop preparatory to the advance of thezlooper-t seize 'the The'diliculty referred to has ,been obviated to some extent inprevious'machines, inl which the threadLcarr-ying"looper and its spreader remaininthe' initial upperthread-loop for passage' of the succeedingupper-'thread loop, only by employing an abnormally strong tension uponthe upper b y a sticky cement, tiles of shoe uppers,

thread, Vbut as the thread-carrying looper had descended below thefabric the drawing orf-'`t-he up'per thread to pull up the initialupper;thread loop necessitated the rendering of the thread through thenew needlepuncto the needle-eyeI and thence to the' take-up mechanism;whereas according to they present'improvem'ent, the recession ofthefthread-'carrying looper from the primary `upper-thread loopimmediately a'fter reaching advance position permits the drawing upofthe initial upper-.thread loop around t-he lower-thread loop while -t-he1needle is, elevated and before' its. point 4 enters the work in thesucceeding descent,-so thatl the object referred to is ettectedqinaccordance with' the present invention with'a normal upper-threadtension, or onel which is entirely suited to the class of overseam to beproduced.

From the' nature of the present improvement, as above set forth, it willbe-observed that the same is not limited to any particular type ofstitch-forming mechanism, but is applicable to any of such mechanismsfor producing plural-thread seams. As herein specifically shown anddescribed, itis 'equally adapted for embodiment in the looper for takingthread loops from onel needle and present-ing thread loops for passageof the other needle.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is aside elevation and Fig. 2 anend elevation representing the stitch-forming mechanism of a but-tonholesewing machine constructed substantially in accordance with that formingthe subject of my said'pending application Serial No. 535,340, with theframe ofthe machine represented in dotted lines and with most of theparts not related directly with the stitch-forming mechanism omitted.Figs. 3 and 4 are enlarged sectional -elevations showing respectivelythe needle-jogging and turning devices and loop-detainer actuatingmechanism. Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the looper mechanism and thebracketupon which it is mounted, and Fig. 6 a plan of the same.- Fig. 7isa perspective view of the loopermechanism detached from the machine,Fig. 8 a similar view of the loop-detainer and its carrier, and Fig. 9 aperspective View of the tubular actuating rod for the lo'op-detainercarrier. Figs. 10 and 11 are enlarged face views of the cams foractuating respectively the looper'- carrier and loop-detainer carrier.Figs. 12 to 19 inclusive are perspective views showing diagrammaticallupon an enlarged scale vari-ous stages o operation of the loophandlingmembers of the stitch-forming mechanism.

'As in my said pending application, the frame of the machine isconstructed with the hollow rectangular base l with bed-plate 2 fromthe-rear end of which rises the hollow standard 3 of the bracket-armhaving the forwardly extending member 4 with hollow head 5. Thebed-plate 2 supports the usual traveling work-clamp to which longiftudinal feeding and sidewlse shifting movements are imparted for spacingthe overseaming stitches of a buttonhole. The main or driving shaft 6 ismounted in and longi- 1 tudinally of the base 1 and is provided withquartering pitmen 8 with similar cranks 9 of the lupper orneedle-driving shaft l0 journaled 1n the cranks 7 connected by means ofVbracket-arm member 4. The main-shaft 6 is provided upon itsv rearwardend with the grooved belt-wheel 11 which is in practice adapted to bethrown into and out of driv` ing relation therewith by means of anautomatically actuated clutch device. I

The tubular needle-bar 12 is suitably jo'urnaled in the bracket-arm head5 and is adapted to ,reciprocate in the'rotarybearing sleeve or bushing13 with which it is connected to rotate by means of the spline'12". Thebearing sleeve carries beneath the head 5 a block-14 to which is securedthe depending guide-plate 15 having parallel slots or runways 16connected atthe upper ends and separated b y the tongue 17." To .thethreaded lower end of the needle-bar is secured the clamp-supportingyoke 18 carrying bearing screws 19 for the lateralV boss 2 0 of thene-ele clamp 21 carrying the. eyepointed needle 22 and provided with.the arm 23 having the lateral pin 24 and moving alternately in theparallel slots 16 of the guide-plate 15.

The loose collar 25, confined from endwise -movement .upon theneedle-bar, has a lateral stud embraced by the lower endof the pitman 26embracing at its upper end the studpin 27 of the crank-plate`28mxed uponthe forward end of the shaft 29 -journaled within the bracket-arm abovet-heaxis of the shaft `10 and having upony its rearward end the disk 30with a series of circularly ar-l ranged lateral'studs 31. The 'shaft 10carries at its forward end the disk 32 having 1n its forward yface aplurality of intersect ing diametrical grooves 33 entered by thel studs31 and forming therewith a trammel d eviee,V which through the describedconnections, imparts two complete vertical reciproeations totheneedlebarlfor each rotation of the needle-actuating shaft and themainshaft.

The outer end of the pin 24 is embraced by the forked arm 34 of therocking yoke 35 plvotally mounted upon the block 14 and provided with alateral arm 36 which is c onnected at one end of the link 37 attachedat' the opposlte end to the loose sleeve 38 slidingly mounted u 'on andadaptedjto rotate with the needlear and annular groove 39 entered y pins40 carried by the forked end 41 of a lever 42 mounted upon thefulcrum-pin 43 which lis journaled upon the bracket-arm head.' One ofthe members of the fork 41 is pivot-ally connected with the lower end ofa` link 44 whose upper end has an adjustable pivotal connection with theslotted crank-arm 45 fixed upon the forward end of the rock-shaft 46carrying at its rearward end a secondcrankarm 47 forked to embrace theactuating eccentric 48 upon the needle-actuating shaft 10. theconnectins just described, the actuatlng cam or eccentric ,48 upon theshaft 10 imparts to the needle-clamp and v rovided with anI verticalreciprocationsof the needle.

To a transverse brace member 1x near the forward end of the basel issecured by screws 49 the foot-plate 50 carrying a boss v 51m which isjournaled the tubular shank 52 of the rotary looper-support 53 providedwiththe bearing hubs 54 for the transverse fulcrum-pin 55 upon which ismounted the hub 56 of the looper-carrier with oppositely extending arms57 and .58 to which are rigidly secured respectively the eyed looper 59.and the forked looper 60.

The looperv59 is provided adjacent its point with a thread-eye 6lextending from the upper to the lower face, and-the nonthreaded looper60 has a iateral spur 62 forming with the loop-entering point 63 thereofa lateral notch 64 to receive one limb of the needle-thread loops seizedby said looper. Overlying the blade of the non-threaded looper 60 andfulcrumed upon the looper-carrier by means of the studscrew 65 is theloop-spreader 66 formedwith .a point 67 normally overlying vthe point 68of the forked looper and having an oppositely extending lateral spur 68forming a notch 69 to receivethe other limb of theneedle-thread loop.yThe loopspreader is yieldingly mounted in normal relation with thelooper 60 with its point 67 overlying the point 63 of the looper, bymeansof a spring 70 having one end secured by the screw 71 to thecarrier-arm 58 and its opposite end entering an aperture 72 in thecam-shaped hub 73 of the spreader' which is adaptedto engage theoperative portion 74 of the cam-block 75 secured by means of thefastening screw 76 upona suitable adjustable seat 58* secured upon alaterally extending segmentally slotted arm F8X of the looper-supportbymeans of the screw 7 0X. The parts are so arranged that upon therocking ofthe looper-carrier the overlying members 67 'and 63 of thespreader and looper enter the needle-thread loop which engages the spurs68 and 62 of said members, after which the further movement of thecarrier with said members causes the hub 73A of the spreader to engagethe cam-member -74,' whereby the loop is distended for passage of theneedle 1n a succeeding descent.

The looper-support is provided also with the alined bearing hubs 77 toreceive the fulcrum-pin 78, disposed transversely of the looper-carrierfulcrum-pin-55, upon which offset forked ,loop-detaining member 84.`

The operative portion of the loop-detaining member is formed with theforwardly and divergently extendingjaws and 86 with intermediate 'throat87, and rearward of the throat is provided upon 'the side toward thethreaded looper. 59 with a lateral notch 88 to afford clearance for thepoint of the needle so as to insure the entrance of the same between theloop-detainer and the limb of the looper-thread loop leading from thet-hread-detaine'r 'throatv to the work.

The sleeve,79 has rigidly connected therewith a lateral arm 89 carryinga laterally extending pin 90 preferably provided with a roller 91entering the transverse guideway 92 formed in a laterally offset lug 93at the upper end of the tubular actuatlng rod 94 having an annular notchor-neck 95 atthe' lower end. The bore of the rod 94 affords a conduitthrough which the looper-thread is led upwardly from the source ofsupply and laterally out of the opening 94x adjacent the lug 93. `Withinthe tubularsh'ank 52 of the looper-support 53, and upon the exterior ofthe tubular actuating rod 94 is tit-ted a second `tubular actuating rod96 having at its lower endl an annular notch or neck 97 and provided atthe upper end 'with an offsetlug 98 connected by means of the screw-stud99 with one. end of a short link 100 having its outer end connected bymeans of the screw-stud 101 with the arm 57 of the looper-carrier. Theupper end of the tubular rod or tube 96 is suitably out away to receivethe lug 93 of the rod 94.

Mount-ed upon the forward `end of the main-shaft 6 and within a suitablerecess in t-he face of the base member 1x is a camwheel 102 providedin'its outer and inner faces, respectively, with cam-grooves 108 and104. Mounted within a suitable vertical guideway 105 of the base member1X is the slide-plate 106 having a forwardly projecting forked lug 107entering the annular notch 97 of t-he tubular rod 96 and carrying therearwardly extending roller-stud 108 passing through a slot 109 in theintermediate shield-plate 110 and entering the cam-groove 103 of thewheel 102. Fitted to a seat 111 provided in the hase member 1x isasecond slide-plate 112 formedwith a slot 113 embracing the shaft 6 andhaving an outwardly extending member 114 which is forked to embrace thenecked lower end portion 95 of the hollow loop'- detainer actuating rod94, the slide-plate 112 carrying a forwardly projecting roller-stud 115which enters the cam-groove 104of the'wheel 102. By the means justdescribed, the hollow rods 94 and 96 receive independent-ly from thecam-wheel 102 vertical jogging movements which communicate to thethread-carrier and non-thread-carrying loopers, theloop-spreader and theloop-detainer, their described respective operative movements.

lsimilarly provided with a toothed pinion 119 engaged by the lateralrack-teeth 120 at the forward extremity of the rack-bar 121 lconnected.by means of the rigid arm 122 dog 129 through connections with avibrat-4 with the reciprocating bar 123. The bars 118 and 123 arejournaled for endwise' movement in suitable bearings of the machineframe, and are rigidly connected together at the rearward ends by means'of the brace bar 124 having at its lower end a forwardly extendingmember 125 carrying an upwardly extending roller-stud 126 which enters acam-groove 127 in the lower face of the feed-wheel 128 from which thebars 118 and 123 derive their to-and-fro movements to impart the turningmovements of the stitch-forming mechanism at the completion of eachside-stitching movement of the work-clamp under'the action of thefeeding mechanism.

The feed-wheel 128 derives its step-bystep operative movements from theclutching lever 130 carrying a roller-stud 131 entering a cani-groove132 of the cam-cylinder 133 fixed upon the main-shaft 6, as more fullyshown and described in my said pending application.

As shown in Fig. 1, the needle-actuating shaft 10 carries adjacentl thegrooved disk 32 a cam-cylinder 134 provided with a takeup cam groove 135entered by a stud 136 upon the depending arm `137 of the take-up lever.fulcrumed at 138 and provided with the upwardly extending arm 139 formedwith the thread-aperture 140. The camcylin'der 134 is provided with asecond peripheral cam-path 141 traversed by a roller 142 journaled inthe forked lower end 143 of the depending-arm 144 of a nipperleverfulcrumed at 145 and having an upwardly extending arm 146 provided withthreadnipping means 146x, as set forth more fully in connection with mysaid pending application.

In threading the machine, the needlethread a is led froml the source ofsupply beneath and around the tension pin 147 and between the tensiondisks 148 thereon over a guide-pin 149 and through a guide-eye 150 uponthe controller-spring 151 carried by the stud 152, and thence throughthethread-nipping device 146X and through the aperture 1,40 of the take-uparm 139 into the upper end of the hollow needle-bar 12 through which itis led downwardly and through the guide-aperture 153 of the needle-clamp21 to the eye of the needle.

The looper-thread b is led from the source of supply through the'guide-eye 154 around the stud-pin 155 and between the tension disks 156,and thence through the guideeye 157 of the controller spring 158 securedupon the foot-plate 50, by means of the screw 159, into the lower end ofthe threaddetainer actuating rod 94 through which it passes and emergesfrom the aperture 94* at the upper end, from which it is led through thethread-guide 160 upon the carrier-arm 57 to the looper-eye 61. Thelooper-thread. controller 158 is limited in its range of outwardmovement` by the ystoppin 161 having the shank 162 adjustably securedupon the foot-plate 50 by means of the screw 163.

The operation of the stitching mechanism4 as follows, assuming thethread-handling parts to be in the' positions which they occupy when themachine is started to stitch a buttonhole, but aft-er the linitial -sidestitches have already been formed.

In the initial positions of the parts preparatory to performing anoverseam-stitch forming cycle, the needle is raisedvnearly to extremeposition abovethe needle-throat 164, which is in practice carried by thecircularly movable looper-support, after the depthstitch puncture of theprevious stitch of which the 'secondary or depth-stitch needlethreadloop a2 is held distended by the looper 60 and spreader 66 and thelooper 59 is retracted from the cutvedge of the material m with thelooper-thread b leading from the eye 61 to the purl of the previous istitch, as .represented in Fig. 12. At this time, the thread-nipper 146Xis open, and the take-up is between middle and extreme retractedpositions.

As the needle descends over the edge of the work and its point entersthe secondary loop a? as represented in Fig. 13, the nontihreaded looperand spreader retreat, and as the thread-loop a2 is dropped by thelatter, the thread-nipper 146X closes and the take-up 139 performs thefirst -stageof its thread-drawing movement, moving to ex-` tremeretracted position, thus setting the previous stitch as the needle'reaches its lowest position.

The .needle having begunits ascent to throw out a new primary loop awhile the thread-nipper remains closed to prevent the action of thespring-controller arm 151 upon the thread, the point of thethread-carrying looper 59 advances through such needle'- loop,.as shownin Fig. 14, immediately after which the nipper 146X opens and the takeupadvances to initial position to permit the distention of the thread-loopaf; the looper 59 continuing its advance to extreme forward positionwhile the needle rises.

The loop-detainer 84 thereupon advances and engages the looper-threadleading fromthe louper-eye 61 to the purl or interlock of the previousstitch, thus forming a loop b ofthe looper-thread, as represented vinFig. 15, which it detains in the path of the needle in its succeedingdepththrust, While the looper 59 immediately retreats from the primaryneedle-thread loop a.

Upon Vthe disengagement ofi the needlethread loop a by the point of theretreating looperv 59, and as the needle 22 approaches its highestposition, the thread-controller 151 is permittedto act to partially drawup the'primary thread-loop a above the needleloop presenting position,as represented in Fig. 16, the thread-nipper 146X still remaining open.

The needle thereuponmakes its second descent for the ldepth-stitchWhile4 the thread-controller 151 .retains the needlethread taut toprevent the catching of thel thread upon the needle point, which'latterenters the distended looper-thread loop b', as represented in Fig. 17,the take-up advancing to give up slack just before the needle-eye entersthe material so as to avoid the drawing of extra thread throughthetension and to prevent the breaking of the thread by jamming between thewall of the needle puncture in the material and the ungrooved side ofthe needle.

The loop-detainer then retires, dropping its loop'bas represented inFig.,18, and the looper-thread controller-spring 158 then acts to drawthe released looper-thread loop taut around the needle. As the needleapproaches its lowest position, the nipper again closes to insure theproper format1on of the succeeding depth-stitch needle-thread loop whilethe .take-up remains in advance position to provide slack for distentionof the thread-loop o4. l

As the needle starts to rise and throws out the new secondary ordepth-stitch loop a, the overlying non-threaded looper 60 and spreader66 advance and seize the same, as represented in Fig. 19, thecontinuedmovement of the looper and spreader to extreme position andthesimultaneous rise of the needle to initial position bringing thethread-handling parts again to the position represented in Fig. 12 atthe completion of an overseam-stitch forming cycle, while the take-uparm139 simultaneously recedes to its initial position, for drawing ythepreviously formed primary or edge stitch needle-thread loop a and thussetting the edge stitch. d d

From the foregoing description, it will be observed that the presentimprovement is particularly adapted for overedge stitching, as inoversealning the sides and eyelet ends of but-tonholes, as it obviatesthe skipping of stitches which heretofore has resulted from thedetention of the previous loop beneath the work to interfere withthe.-

proper presentation of the subsequent loop for seizure by the looper.Thus, upon the release of the primary or edge-stitch needlethread loopby the thread-carrying looper 59, as represented in Fig. 16, thethread-coneration represented in Fig. 13, the needleeye is beneath thework but over the edge of,

the material, or in the buttonhole slit, and while the needle-threadacted upon by the vcontroller 151 is consequently subjected to asomewhat greater resistance than in the loop-drawing action beforedescribed, ,it will be'observed that even at such time thecontroller-spring 151 is enabled to act effectively in drawing thethread throu h the needle-eye upwardly through the slit .and over theface of the material and through the previously lformed needle-puncture,which latter does not embrace the thread suiliciently closely to lofferany considerable resistance. It will thus be seen that the action of thecontroller-spring 151 takes place upon` one stitch whilethe needle israised, and therefore draws up the needlethread directly over thc edgeof the fabric or. through the buttonhole slit; and upon the other stitchalso over the edge of the fabric or through the slit and through theprevious depthstitch needle-puncture as Well. In either case, however,the controller-spring is not required to exert its pull upon theneedle-thread in drawing up a previously. formed thread-loop while thethread leading thereto is within a needlepuncture occupied by the bladeof the needle, so as to be subjected to the lateral pressure of theneedle and the wall of the puncture upon the opposite sides of thethread.

As .herein shown and described, the stitchforming mechanism comprises,in conjunction with the loop-detainer, a jogging needle, an eye-pointedlooper, and a forked looper with its spreader for enchaining two loopsof upper or needle-thread with a loop of lower or looper-thread in theperformance of each overseam-stitch vforming cycle, but it is evidentthat the present improvement is adapted to other forms of stitch-formingmechanism in which one thread-carrying implement enters and emerges fromthe same side of a thread-loop carried through the work by anotherthread-carrying implement, and that it is therefore adapted to othertypes of stitch-forming mechanism than that specifically disclosedherein.

The upper-thread take-up and nipping resented. in said pendingapplication, but

dii'ers therefrom in having a greater range of action for coperationwith the present looper mechanism.

As indicated in Figs. 2,12 and 13, in the retracted positions of thethread-Carr ing looper 59 preparatory to the setting o the stitches,the' lead of the looper-thread is across andupon the opposite side 0fthe buttonhole slit or edge of the material in relation to the needlepaths, so that, not only does the pull lof the looper-thread under theaction of the looper-thread controller 158 tend to draw the purl orinterlock beyond the lower edge of the material, but the pull of theneedle-thread a. in drawing up and setting the edge-stitch loop takesplace beyond the edge of the material. is consequently drawn beyond thelower edge of the material so as to bring the purl in its final positionto and partially beyond 'the edge, and thus the purls at opposite sidesof ahuttonhole slit will rest substantially in contact and therebyproduce a handsome appearance to the work; which is a result long soughtbut heretofore never attained in a satisfactory manner.

One of the chief factors in this result is the relation in the presentmechanism of the threaded and non-threaded loopers to the joggingneedle, which is ,suchy that the threaded looper enters theneedle-thread loop presented by the needle in its overedge thrust, whilethe non-threaded looper engages the thread-loop presented by the needlein its depth-thrust.

With the class of looper mechanism shown in my said pending applicationSerial No. 535,340, and represented more fully in Figs. 18 to 22inclusive of my Pat-ent No. 734.794, of July 28, 1903, difficulty waseX- perienced in producing an `overseam as narrow as desired by thetrade, as the minimum lateral throw of the needlewas limited by the.width of .the operative portion of the 'forked looper-thread spreader.In this previous construction, the needle descends to present itsloop'for passage of the threaded looper and its overlying forked spreaderwhich immediately distends the loop for the succeeding descent of theneedle intermediate the looper and spreader, but in a dierent pathnearer the non-threaded looper. As the needle point enters the distendedThe depth-stitch loop looperthread loop, the looper nd its spreaderrecede, but the spreader o erating means, in order to properly move thespreader in the previous stages of its cycle of operations is incapable,from the nature of the mechanism, of detaining the spreader in itsreturn lateral movement sufficiently to avoid interference with theneedle when making a very small lateral jogging movement. f

According 'to the present improvement, the spreader for thelooper-thread mounted upon the carrier is dispensed with, and theloop-detainer which retains the looperthread loop for the succeedingdescent of the needle has a path of movement which does not at any timecross that of the needle, and therefore this difficulty is entirelyavoided, and the range of movement of the needle `for a minimum jog isunlimited by any member of the looper mechanism.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis 1. Overseaming sewing mechanism comprising the combination with meansoperating successively in each stitch-termin cyc e to pass primary andsecondary threa loops respectively through the work in different paths,of a looper adapted to pass a looperthread loopn through a primarythread-loop and exterior to the secondary thread-loop of the same cycle,a loop-detainer adapted to engage and hold 'said looper-thread loop uponthe side of the work adjacent the looper for passage of a secondarythreadloop while the looper recedes from the primary 'thread-loo-p,means acting after the recession of the looper from the primarythread-loop for drawing up said primary thread-loop upon thelooper-thread loop embraced thereby while the looper-thread loop isengaged by the loop-detainer, and actuating means for impartingoperative movementsto the several thread-handling members.

2. 1n a sewing machine, the'combinationwith. means operatingsuccessively in each stitch forming cycle to pass primary and secondarythread-loops 'respectively through 'the work in two differentsubstantially parallel paths, of a looper adapted to pass a thread loopupon the Aside of the Work adjacent the-looper for passageof thesecondary a thread-loop 'While the looper recedes from the primarythread-loop, means act-ing after the recession of the looper from theprimary. thread-loop `for drawing up the latter upon the 'looper-threadloop embraced thereby whilethe looper-thread loop is detained forpassage of the secondary thread-loop, and actuating means for impartingoperative movements to the several threadhandling members. e

4.7111 a sewing machine, the combination with a thread-carryingneedle,aneedle-bar in which the same is mounted, and a rotary supportv in whichsaid needle-bar is journaledto reciprocate, of complementalstitchtorming mechanism comprising a reciprocating thread-carryinglooper adapted to pass a loop of looper-thread through a loop ofvneedle-thread, a looper-carrier, a rotary support .upon which saidlooper-carrier is .mounted to reciprocate, a loop detainer mounted uponthe rotary looper-support independently ot' said looper-carrier andadapted to engage and hold said looper- ,t-hread loop While thev looperrecedes from the. needle-thread loop for passage of a subsequentlyformed thread-loop', means tor imparting turningmovements in unison tosaid rotary supports, and a needle-thread controller adapted to draw upthe firstnamed needle-thread loop after the recession 4lotuier-thrczultherefrom of said looper `and While the detainer. f

In a seiving'machine, the combination with means i'or passing primaryand` secondary thread-loops Lsuccessively through the work lin differentpathsyof a reciprocating loop-carrier, .oppositely' directedthreadcarrying and non-thread-carrying loopers vmounted upon saidcarrier and adapted to engagerespectively said primary and secondarythread-loops," a spreader overlying the non-thread-carrying looper and`-adapted torlat'eral movement relatively tothesame,

. a {loop-detainer supported independently lof said looper-.carrierandfadapted to engage and' hold said looper-thread loop for passage otthe secondary thread-loop While the looper :reeedesfroln the primarythreadloop is engaged by said looploop, means acting after the recessionof the looper from the primary thread-loop. for drawing upthe .latterupon the looperthread loop while said looper-thread loop is detained forpassage of the secondary thread-loop, and actuating means for` impartingoperative movements to the several and adapted to'engage and hold saidlooper-- thread loop for passage ot the lsecondary thread-loop While thelooper recedes from the primary thread-loop, means acting after therecession of the looper from the pri- `mary thread-loop for drawing upthe latter upon the looper-thread loop While said looper-thread loop isdetained for passage of the secondary thread-loop, and actuating meansfor imparting operative movements to the several thread-handlingmembers.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for passing primaryand secondary thread-loops successively through the work in differentpaths, of a looper adapted to passa looper-thread'loop through a primarythread-loop, a reciprocating carrier for said looper, a loop-detainermounted independently of said looper-carrier and adapted to engage andhold said looperthread loop at one side of the pathof the primarythread-loop for passage of the secondary thread-loop While the looperrecedes from the primary thread-loop and to retain said looper-threadloop out of the path'ot movement of the succeeding primary thread-loop,means acting after the recession of the looper from the primarythreadloop for drawing up the latter 'uponthe looper-thread loop Whilesaid looper-thread loop is detained for passage of the secondarythread-loop, and actuating means for imparting operative movements tothe several thread-handling members.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with means for passing primaryand secondary thread-loops successively through the Work in different,paths, of a looper adapted to pass a looper-thread'loop `through aprimary thread-loop,y a looper-support., an os- "cillatory:loopen-carrier*uponavliich said looper is mounted, ia fulcrum-pin forsaid looper-carr1er mounted upon the looper- Support7 an oscillatoryloop-dtainerraclaptsubstantially axial relating with .the rtary 'l U n Mplq'n www" Wm" ,loop after recession therefrom of the threadname to thisspecification, in the presence of carrying operl'l arlid Wlile thelooier Vloop two subscribing witnesses. i is engage y t e oopetainer, anaotuat- 1 ing means for imparting operative move- EDWARD 'B' ALLEN' 5ments to the looper-oarrier and the loop-de- Witnesses:

tainer. HENRY J. MILLER,

In testimony whereof, I have signed my HENRY-A'. KORNEMANN.

